16 May 2014

Dover Street Market, New York City

On Lexington Avenue sits a former schoolhouse that houses one of the most spectacular retail stores in the world. Dover Street Market isn't exactly famous. It is, but primarily by those who have a great interest in fashion and innovative, avant-garde designers. Rei Kawakubo, the celebrated Japanese designer behind Comme des Garçons, is the brainchild of this visual masterpiece, and the store is also located in Tokyo and London. She says about the DSM: "I want to create a kind of market where various creators from various fields gather together and encounter each other in an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos - the mixing up and coming together of different kindred souls who all share a strong personal vision."

Comme des Garçons white shirts shown on a piperail (top), accented with Doc Marten buckle shoes (bottom)
The name "Dover Street Market" rung a bell when I heard a college peer mention her visit. When she said that Rei Kawakubo was the one who implemented it, I made a plan to visit the store that day. I am such a huge fan of Kawakubo and her deconstructed pieces. Never will I forget the Comme des Garçons Autumn/Winter 2005 collection, models slowly walking down the runway to organ music and dressed as romantic Victorian brides. The show changed my life (well, really sparked my interest in more conceptual fashion rather than pretty fashion).

My favorite display in DSM. It is so simple, but the clothing speaks volumes.
So off I went to this hidden gem that even most New Yorkers are ignorant of. The store was somewhat hard to locate due to the lack of signage or any indication whatsoever of "Hey, this is Dover Street Market! Come on in!" I did locate the old building and peeked around to see the entrance to the store. The only thing letting me know I had reached my destination were the glass front doors with "Dover Street Market New York" printed on them. I immediately walked into a cafe and noticed how small a space the floor level was. It is not cramped, but it's definitely not spacious. I suppose it adds a sense of exclusivity. Congratulations, you have found the most artistic retail store in the world. I saw some bags displayed and a...pole...or tree...or I-don't-know-what wrapped in knits. This "sculpture" extended through all seven floors. 

Simplistic display of shoes and small bags. The color theme of the entire floor was monochromatic.
I am not going to take you through my step-by-step progression through the store. What I will do is recommend you visit should you ever be in New York City. This store is incredible. It is like a luxury retail boutique mixed with a modern art museum. The lighting is incredible for portraying a clean, minimalistic mood, and the colors of the clothing appear as vibrant and saturated as they can possibly be. Each floor has different music, depending on the designers and general theme of that floor. Clothing is displayed in a manner I don't come across often, but one that struck me as ingenious. Clothing is displayed by itself; by this I mean one article of clothing is displayed in one size next to a different item displayed in one size, and so on. Why am I in love with this merchandising technique? It leads the customer to view that product as one-of-a-kind, precious, an art piece, something that will be theirs and theirs only. It cleans up the display. It seems so carefully curated, much like art in a museum. A more beautiful and immaculate form of merchandising has never been executed. I could kiss the merchandiser if I knew who they were. Each floor holds different designers. Names held here include Prada, Rick Owens, Junya Watanbe, Jil Sander, Jacquemus, and Giambattista Valli.

Christopher Kane
Simone Rocha's amazing frosted sandals

Dover Street Market is a must see for lovers of luxury and cutting-edge design. It doesn't hurt if you are a massive Rei Kawakubo fan, either! 
Location: 30th Street and Lexington Avenue, New York City